“FIN!” My eyes dart towards a wave breaking over two black silhouettes up ahead.
A third suddenly appears and I stand rooted to the spot. A trio of shimmering adult lemon sharks, 8ft each in length, cruise a mere 20ft away from where I’m paddling. I let out a sigh of relief as they dip underwater to avoid another breaking wave.
Then one playfully rises to the surface offering a glimpse of his beady eyes and full set of jagged white teeth. We’re in Shark Bay, near Feijoal, on the island of Sal, which belongs to Cape Verde.
Despite being assured by our guides, Vincent and Thierry, that lemon sharks only eat other fish and are not a threat to humans, we are all buzzing with nervous energy as we wade back to the shore, swapping stories and close shave photos after our time spent sharing the same water with Jaws’ cuter cousins.
“No stress” is the mantra of Cape Verde but my first experience of this collection of 10 islands and islets 570km off the west coast of Africa is more exhilaration than relaxation. With a population of about half a million, the Republic of Cabo Verde is only a fraction larger than Luxembourg.
Originally discovered by the Portuguese, there’s a melting pot of cultures here with African, Brazilian and Portuguese influences refected in the food, fashion and music. Our tour of Sal also takes in Buracona, a small bay in the north west of the island.
Treading carefully down a path leading to a cliff edge, we watch waves crash into rocks. I shuff e forward eager to get a closer look before a huge wave smashes down and blasts salt water up the cliff. We head for a gap in the rocks and stare down into darkness.
This is the Olho Azul, which in Portuguese means “Blue Eye”. When the sun’s rays hit the water just right, the cave lights up and looks like a gigantic blue eye. You can also swim in the natural lava pool next to the “Blue Eye”, from which you have a clear view of the 263m-high Monte Leste.
Back on the tour bus, the driver takes a detour to a remote village on the island’s northern tip to reveal what appears to be an ocean floating in the middle of the desert. He explains this extraordinary sight is the desert sand melting away to create an ocean-like mirage. Our next stop is Santa Maria, an idyllic fishing village in the south with an 8km stretch of powder-white sand.
Crayola-coloured buildings stand out against cobbled streets dotted with palm trees. British tourists cross oceans and timezones for the laid-back beach life of Antigua or St Lucia. But if you grab a five-and-a-half hour jetlag-free flight to the Cape Verde islands, you’ll get the same scenery and chilled-out vibe in what is known as “the African Caribbean”.
We stroll along the pier and pop into the funky craft shops before seeking a drinks stop. With its top sea views, we choose the outdoor terrace over the rocks at the Odjo d’Agua Hotel for a sundowner.
Although Cape Verde is still fairly new on the tourist trail, an upscale destination resort and a glossy beach club, both developed by The Resort Group, are already attracting a glamorous crowd. The all-inclusive Melia Llana Beach Resort and Spa is a bright white, five-star, abode on the beach front. The rooms are elegantly monochrome with soft furnishings and artwork in sunset orange.
Alternatively, stay at the neighbouring TUI Sensimar Cabo Verde Resort, a chic, adults-only hotel near the beach. Guests can unwind on Bali beds by one of two pools or chill on the beach beds reserved for the hotel.
Deluxe double rooms feature free wifi, air conditioning and balconies. Room upgrade options include garden swim-up suites and the spa and gym are shared with the neighbouring Melia Llana. Eager to open with a fanfare, when we rock up at the Melia Llana for the launch party there are performances from Jamelia and Alesha Dixon.
Meanwhile, the slinky Bikini Beach Club on Sal is Cape Verde’s most glam new pool party venue. We arrive the next night to enjoy a starstudded opening party starring Tinie Tempah, Basement Jaxx, Roger Sanchez and Jason Derulo.
Built 40 metres out into the Atlantic, this seductive location is perfect for sunset drinks and night-time DJ sets. Grabbing one of the double sunloungers around the pool, we order champagne cocktails and party under the stars.
