This article was first published by Express.co.uk in January 2019
NOVA SCOTIA means ‘New Scotland’ in Latin, and this cut of land on the east coast of Canada was once attached to Scotland, some one billion years ago.
Now a proudly Canadian province, Nova Scotia offers visitors exhilarating outdoor activities and buckets of tasty seafood.
The best way to experience everything on offer across the 21,300 square mile province is by hiring a car.
Here are the best eight things to do on a road trip around Nova Scotia.
1. Drive to Peggy’s Cove
After touching down at Halifax airport and hiring your car, waste no time in making the one-hour drive south to Peggy’s Cove.
Peggy’s Point Lighthouse is planted on rocks just by the water looking out at the North Atlantic Ocean, bearing a striking resemblance to Shutter Island, Martin Scorsese’s 2010 hit film starring Leonardo DiCaprio.
But rather than a psychiatric facility for the criminally insane, Peggy’s Cove is just a really cute rural community. Wander around the fishing cove and lighthouse to work up an appetite before heading into Sou’Wester for fresh fish and chips, best washed down with a pint of Clancy’s Amber Ale.
2. Pop-up space by Halifax city harbour
Back in Halifax ditch the car and walk down to the waterfront. Don’t miss the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market (but just check times for when it’s open) for a bustling hub of venders selling everything from shawarma to smoothies.
Pop in to the Canadian Museum of Immigration to experience what it was like to immigrate to Canada through Pier 21 in the 20th Century and check out the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic to sit in an original deckchair pulled from the wreckage days after the Titanic sunk.
Once you’ve earned a refreshment head to one of the many pop-up bars on the water. Don’t miss Stillwell Bar, offering 10 Nova Scotia craft beers on tap as well as sausages and pretzels to fight off any hunger.
3. Seafood feast at the Five Fisherman in Halifax
Spoil yourself at The Five Fishermen, an upmarket restaurant in downtown Halifax that cannot fail to meet your seafood desires.
Start with the mussels Acadian-style cooked in fresh herbs, garlic, cream and white wine, before taking on the Five Fish – scallops, shrimp, lobster, salmon and swordfish combined in an asparagus risotto.
If you have any room left the coconut chai latte cheesecake is a treat and don’t forget to ask your waiter about the building being haunted – there are so many spooky tales from this old schoolhouse that staff are not even surprised when taps run themselves and glasses fall off shelves.
4. Tidal bore rafting in the Bay of Fundy
Thrill-seekers should look no further than the Tidal Bore Rafting Resort in the Bay of Fundy for their next hit of adventure. Found between Nova Scotia and New Brunswick is the Bay of Fundy, home to the largest tides in the world.
After putting on a huge yellow raincoat, we head down to the Shubenacadie River and strap into our life jackets. The water is terracotta-coloured but calm and peaceful and I examine the scenic cliffs as eagles swoop between them. With a dozen people in our inflatable raft, I am totally unprepared for what happens next. As we turn into the tidal bore, and on the horizon I spot a gathering stream of murky water making its way towards us.
Our driver John speeds towards the water and takes us in to the tides, the boat bouncing up and down as everyone gets soaked. At one point I can’t see the guy in front of me as he is coated by a wave and trying to hold onto the side of the boat I relent and fall in to the river. Back on deck we take in more waves, our feet soaked, laughter bellowing from the crew and passengers alike.
Every six hours, 100 billion tons of seawater rushes in or out of the Bay of Fundy, producing tides that can reach an incredible 53 feet. And after losing our war with the waves, we are driven to a bank nearby where we go mud-sliding, which is exactly how it sounds. Starting at the top of a muddy bank, I shoot down the slippery mud track to land in mucky the river basin bellow. With mud literally everywhere – in my ears, all over my face – we return to the Tidal Bore Rafting Resort for a long, hot rinse in their outdoor showers.
5. Walking tour around Lunenburg
Leave Wolfville for Lunenburg, a pretty port town an hour and 20 minutes’ drive to the province’s south shore. Take a walking tour of Lunenburg and discover how around 3,000 Germans immigrated here in the 18th century and practically built the town that you see today.
The buildings are striking with vibrant colours alongside a strong Victorian architecture. Our informative guide Ashlee takes us from the Lunenburg Academy, an imposing structure sitting at the top of on the top of Gallows Hill, downhill past St. John’s Anglican Church – now restored after being set alight one Halloween – finishing at the waterfront flush with shops, art galleries and restaurants.
6. Drink with the students in Wolfville
An hour-and-a-half driving west of the Shubenacadie River is Wolfville, a quaint little college town. Stay at the grand Blomidon Inn, a restored 1882 sea captain’s mansion on five acres. Enjoy more seafood delights with chilli and ginger mussels to start followed by seafood pasta whilst relaxing in their Victorian-inspired gardens.
After dinner stroll down Wolfville’s main street and stop for a few ales at the Library Pub to warm up before heading to Paddy’s Brew Pub, a buzzing centre-of-town spot packed with students from Acadia University most nights during term time.
Before you go check out the Grand-Pre National Historic Site, a park commemorating the area where Acadians settled from 1682 to 1755, before the British deported them following the Seven Years’ War.
7. Kayak out to Blue Rocks
Finish your trip by kayaking the islands around Blue Rocks, a picturesque fishing harbour. From Pleasant Paddling’s launch spot you head out on the serene, protected water of Blue Rocks past dozens of uninhabited islands.
Keep an eye out for the local seal colony, scores of birds, sea creatures and other wildlife living in the area as you make your way out to Eastern Points – from here if you kept going at some point you would reach Ireland.
8. Seafood pub grub at Brigantine Inn restaurant
Stay at the Brigantine Inn right on the harbour and gorge yourself at The Grand Banker Seafood Bar & Grill, located onsite below the inn for great hearty food in a buzzy seaside pub.
Sharing is best to take advantage of their great menu, with the fish tacos, chicken wings and scallops all impressing before stand-out deserts chocolate fudge cake and bread and butter pudding send you to your room to lie down.
