STANDING on a cliff overlooking the Arabian Sea, a deep growl beneath me fights its way to the surface.
Steam emerges from a hole in the rock and there’s an explosion of noise as water spurts up as high as a house. Having revealed itself to the outside world, the natural fountain flops to the floor leaving the damp onlookers to wipe themselves down. Oman is largely desert, so seeing a blowhole erupt was nothing short of exhilarating.
I had come to Salalah, Oman’s second city, in the south near the Yemen border, to experience traditional Arab culture. The best way to take in the unspoilt scenery is undoubtedly by taking a guided tour led by an informed Omani guide, in our case Mohammed, 26, an engineering student and part-time air traffic controller who takes tours in his spare time.
We drive through some of the province’s best sights. Our first stop was Taqah, a small fishing village a short drive east of Salalah, renowned for its dried sardines, which give off quite a whiff. Snoop around the century-old hilltop castle which was the residence of the Wali (governor) of the region, until 1970 when the current ruler, Sultan Qaboos bin Said al Said, overthrew his own father.
Now it is a museum. It is a great place to exchange the sweltering heat on the ground for the welcome breeze above the town. From up here you can marvel at the waves smashing down on the empty beach. Next we visited the ruins of the ancient city of Sumharam and home to the remains of the Queen of Sheba’s Palace, now a largely barren outpost.
Once again the view is the winner, with a close glimpse of the white flamingos, camels and cows that live together in the lake behind the excavated site, made possible through a neatly-placed telescope. If you tire of terracotta, the Ayn Razat botanical gardens offer the eye a nice reminder of greenery.
Clamber up the path to a large cave and walk beside the tranquil spring water stream. I take the opportunity over lunch to quiz Mohammed about the differences between Omani and British life. Naturally, the conversation turns to women. “I have four vacancies for marriage but really I just want one to love,” he says.
When a woman in our group remarks that their husband is at home looking after the cat, Mohammed shudders. While Omani women are now pursuing careers and moving away from household confinement, perceptions are still in the process of changing. For visitors, though, Oman is serene and picturesque, almost eerie in parts.
West of Salalah is Mughsayl Beach, a strip of untouched coast with a mountainous backdrop to complete the picture-postcard look. But the beach is empty. Perhaps due to the humid and near-40C daytime heat, it remains quiet until sunset. After a busy day touring, unwind at the luxurious five-star Salalah Rotana Resort where you can sample an Arabian mixed grill at indoor Saffron or the surf and turf (monkfish and steak) at the alfresco Beach Restaurant.
It you want to push the boat out, indulge in “destination dining” with a private butler serving scallops and extravagant seafood platters, for a romantic meal just metres from the shore. You’ll have to wake up early for a dip in the resort’s giant swimming pool before the sun boils the water into hot-tub territory while Zen, the on-site spa, offers a whole host of massages, facials and scrubs for those who prefer their activities lying down.
The general dress code in Oman is sleeves and trousers for men and covered legs and shoulders for women but that is relaxed around the hotel, which is a good thing given the heat Alcohol is served at the hotel despite a national ban on public drinking but the liquor doesn’t flow endlessly behind closed doors like it does in nearby Dubai. It’s just not that kind of place. Oman has a more thoughtful vibe.
GETTING THERE: Stay at the five- star Salalah Rotana Resort from 70 OMR++ (approx £119) per night, two adults sharing a classic room, inclusive of breakfast. To book or for further information, please visit rotana.com. Oman Air offers a non-stop daily 7-hour flight from London Heathrow to Muscat.
